With temperatures outside dipping below the zero mark, it may be time to audit the energy efficiency of your home. One of the best ways to do this is to get a Professional Energy Audit.

In preparation for an Energy Audit, you should compile a history of past utility bills and a list of any known problems you’re having with the home such as drafty spots or window condensation. The auditor will also examine your home inside and out and ask you questions pertaining to your use habits.

Most audits should include a blower door test and a thermographic scan. The blower door test consists of a fan positioned outward at the main entry door. When all doors and windows in the home are closed and the fan begins to suck air from inside to outside, the technician can measure the amount of air leakage within the home. A thermographic scan uses infrared cameras to measure surface temperatures. Cooler spots register as black, warmer spots register as white on the camera’s sensors. By using this camera, the technician will be able to pinpoint the leakage areas. The technician should also audit your home’s heating system and provide you with an actual percentage of efficiency of the system as compared to what the system claims to achieve.

After the audit, the technician will make recommendations ranging from additional insulation in trouble spots to possible equipment replacement. Many of these improvements may qualify for federal tax credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency. The tax credit will cover 30% of the cost up to $1,500 on existing homes as your principal residence. Tax credits are set to expire December 31, 2010. For a list of what qualifies, see www.energystar.gov for more information.

To find a professional energy auditor, ask your state or local government energy office for recommendations. Your local electric or gas utility company may also have additional resources. Be sure to ask for references.

Reviewing your home’s energy efficiency is a simple way to save money and live green. By keeping your home’s operating systems functioning at their best, you will be doing your part to reduce needless energy consumption. Plus the money you save on utility bills will be money in your pocket and may help when it comes time to sell your home. Call us and we’ll help you arrange an energy audit of your home 847.866.6868.

Controlling your home’s humidity in the cold, dry winter months is the most important factor in preventing cracks in your hardwood floor, molding and millwork. Making sure your humidifier and humidity controls are working properly is the best way to maintain a beautiful, trouble-free appearance.

Our maintenance department would be happy to assist you in any of your home maintenance tasks.  For more information on our maintenance service, please call Phil at 847.866.6868.

by Janet McCann, McCann Associates, Inc.

“Solid wood is far superior to veneer”

This is a belief that undoubtedly began in the forties when veneer first came into the marketplace as a way to save cost in the production of furniture and cabinets. At the time the veneer was thin, the sub-material was inferior and the glue was not the quality of todays glues.  Consequently, veneers would delaminate exposing crude particle board, not exactly a quality look!  Since then the improvements in the quality of the veneer, the sub-material and the glue have greatly been developed and improved.

Maurice Jefferson, from Benvenuti and Stein reports that while some cabinetmakers use 2 mm thickness of veneer, he uses 10 mm.  The early generation of particle board has been replaced by Medium Density Fiber (MDF) board which  has a smooth and stable surface.  It is available with low V.O.C.(volatile organic compound) and in thicknesses that can be bent into curved configurations.  Glues have been improved for both stability and health reasons.

Comparing the quality differences between solid and veneer isn’t even the pertinent issue.  The two different methods have completely different looks.  Let’s look at the case of a table top.    A table top made of solid wood is made of several boards approx. 9″ wide by 3/4″ thick   Because of the thickness of the wood and the need for stability (that is to say: non-warping) the board is cut from the center of the log giving the board a look of what is called “cathedrals”.  Think of an arch in the wood grain.  The boards are glued together to the desired width of the table giving the table top the look of a series of arches.  Typically, this produces a “country” look.  If a more formal or unique look is desired there are many options possible by using veneer.  There are many species of trees that produce highly figured veneers by not just the inherent character of the wood but by how the wood is sliced from the log.   A veneer of burled ash is unique in itself; when the veneer is cut into pie shapes, a “sunburst” pattern can be achieved, creating a formal and unique look   You can imagine this would produce a table top far different from the country table produced from solid wood.