Winter can be tough on a roofing system.  Ice dams are formed when heat from the inside of a home escapes into the attic and warms the roof decking during the winter.  This heat, combined with heat from the sun can melt snow on the roof.  When it reaches the cold eaves and gutters it refreezes.  This continual thaw and re-freeze process creates ice dams.

If ice dams are not properly addressed they can lead to significant damage to the interior of your home.  The best solution is to install heat cables inthe gutter and downspouts or on areas of the roof.  This allievates the problem by melting the ice and not allowing them to form in the first place.

If you’d like more information on haveing heat cables install for ice dam prevention, please call Phil Knell is our maintenance department at 847.866.6868.

On my drive to work each morning, I’ve started to notice a definite sign that spring is fast approaching – the sun is finally out again to greet me on my morning commute. So maybe it’s my new traveling buddy that has me thinking a lot about the sun lately.

There are many ways to tap into using solar energy for your home. Some are cost effective and worth consideration and some are financially just not yet within most homeowners’ grasp. We will discuss two solar powered systems most commonly used in residential homes today.

First up are solar photovoltaic (PV) panels. Much larger versions of the panels found on handheld calculators, PV panels are used most often to retrofit existing buildings with solar energy on their rooftops. In order to consider PV panels for your roof, you need to have the correct orientation. For those of us in the northern hemisphere, this means mainly due south. In addition, the steepness of your roof is also a factor. The inclination of the panels should match the area’s latitude in order to maximize energy absorption. And finally, even a tiny amount of shade exposure to the PV panels can reduce their efficiency dramatically.

After you have met the above requirements, you will need to determine the appropriate size of your system. Determining the size of your system depends on several factors. Do you want to be on or off the utility grid? Do you want to use a backup generator or battery system? What percent of your power usage will be handled by the solar system? To determine this, you should work with a solar power professional and have the system installed by a licensed electrician with PV systems experience. In addition, be sure to look into federal, state, and local rebates and incentives to take full advantage of the cost savings available to you.

A typical 2 kW solar electric system will cost approximately $20,000. Some of this cost can be offset by rebates and tax credits. And if you factor in cost savings on utility bills over the lifespan of the system (usually about 20-25 years), as well as the amount of value added to the price of your home, the cost may be well worth it for some. Still for most homeowners, this initial cost is still out of their price range.

So if you still want to consider solar energy sources for your home, but PV panels are not practical for your budget you could consider using a solar hot water system, or more broadly named “solar thermal” systems. These systems use the sun to heat domestic hot water and generally range in cost from $3000 to $4500. The solar-generated hot water can be used for household hot water, radiant heat systems (floor or wall), or for heating swimming pools and hot tubs.

There are direct and indirect solar hot water systems. Direct systems are typically not used in the Chicago area as they are prone to freezing. Indirect systems use a non-freezing fluid in a closed-loop pipe system. As temperatures in the pipes rise, a pump circulates the fluid through to a heat exchanger in the hot water tank to heat the water. In colder months this system can work to pre-heat water for the hot water tank thereby offsetting your energy usage load.

Solar heating swimming pools and hot tubs are fairly inexpensive. Use a “black-mat” system to help prevent overheating pool water to dangerous temperatures. While pool and hot tub heating systems are generally not eligible for rebates or incentives, their cost can often be recouped in less than 5 years.

Solar power is one of the fastest growing sectors of green homebuilding. It seems only natural for us to gaze up at the wonderful yellow orb in the sky and wonder how to harness its vast source of energy. And as the technology in the field continues to expand, more and more homeowners will be looking to capture their own slice of the pie.

If you have any questions about using solar power in your own home, please contact us for more information.

With temperatures outside dipping below the zero mark, it may be time to audit the energy efficiency of your home. One of the best ways to do this is to get a Professional Energy Audit.

In preparation for an Energy Audit, you should compile a history of past utility bills and a list of any known problems you’re having with the home such as drafty spots or window condensation. The auditor will also examine your home inside and out and ask you questions pertaining to your use habits.

Most audits should include a blower door test and a thermographic scan. The blower door test consists of a fan positioned outward at the main entry door. When all doors and windows in the home are closed and the fan begins to suck air from inside to outside, the technician can measure the amount of air leakage within the home. A thermographic scan uses infrared cameras to measure surface temperatures. Cooler spots register as black, warmer spots register as white on the camera’s sensors. By using this camera, the technician will be able to pinpoint the leakage areas. The technician should also audit your home’s heating system and provide you with an actual percentage of efficiency of the system as compared to what the system claims to achieve.

After the audit, the technician will make recommendations ranging from additional insulation in trouble spots to possible equipment replacement. Many of these improvements may qualify for federal tax credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency. The tax credit will cover 30% of the cost up to $1,500 on existing homes as your principal residence. Tax credits are set to expire December 31, 2010. For a list of what qualifies, see www.energystar.gov for more information.

To find a professional energy auditor, ask your state or local government energy office for recommendations. Your local electric or gas utility company may also have additional resources. Be sure to ask for references.

Reviewing your home’s energy efficiency is a simple way to save money and live green. By keeping your home’s operating systems functioning at their best, you will be doing your part to reduce needless energy consumption. Plus the money you save on utility bills will be money in your pocket and may help when it comes time to sell your home. Call us and we’ll help you arrange an energy audit of your home 847.866.6868.

Controlling your home’s humidity in the cold, dry winter months is the most important factor in preventing cracks in your hardwood floor, molding and millwork. Making sure your humidifier and humidity controls are working properly is the best way to maintain a beautiful, trouble-free appearance.

Our maintenance department would be happy to assist you in any of your home maintenance tasks.  For more information on our maintenance service, please call Phil at 847.866.6868.

by Janet McCann, McCann Associates, Inc.

“Solid wood is far superior to veneer”

This is a belief that undoubtedly began in the forties when veneer first came into the marketplace as a way to save cost in the production of furniture and cabinets. At the time the veneer was thin, the sub-material was inferior and the glue was not the quality of todays glues.  Consequently, veneers would delaminate exposing crude particle board, not exactly a quality look!  Since then the improvements in the quality of the veneer, the sub-material and the glue have greatly been developed and improved.

Maurice Jefferson, from Benvenuti and Stein reports that while some cabinetmakers use 2 mm thickness of veneer, he uses 10 mm.  The early generation of particle board has been replaced by Medium Density Fiber (MDF) board which  has a smooth and stable surface.  It is available with low V.O.C.(volatile organic compound) and in thicknesses that can be bent into curved configurations.  Glues have been improved for both stability and health reasons.

Comparing the quality differences between solid and veneer isn’t even the pertinent issue.  The two different methods have completely different looks.  Let’s look at the case of a table top.    A table top made of solid wood is made of several boards approx. 9″ wide by 3/4″ thick   Because of the thickness of the wood and the need for stability (that is to say: non-warping) the board is cut from the center of the log giving the board a look of what is called “cathedrals”.  Think of an arch in the wood grain.  The boards are glued together to the desired width of the table giving the table top the look of a series of arches.  Typically, this produces a “country” look.  If a more formal or unique look is desired there are many options possible by using veneer.  There are many species of trees that produce highly figured veneers by not just the inherent character of the wood but by how the wood is sliced from the log.   A veneer of burled ash is unique in itself; when the veneer is cut into pie shapes, a “sunburst” pattern can be achieved, creating a formal and unique look   You can imagine this would produce a table top far different from the country table produced from solid wood.

With winter here, make sure your water heater is in proper working condition. It’s recommended to have the heater checked annually. Here are a few tips to keep your heating system in top working order:

• Check your water heater for signs of leaking and rust.
• Drain the water tank and refill to remove sediment.
• Be sure that the pressure relief valve has a discharge pipe that extends to the floor. If this valve ever leaks or drips, call a plumber and under no circumstances should you ever block this valve off!

Lastly, the time change in the fall and spring always serve as a good reminder to change the batteries in your smoke detector.

Considering wood flooring for your next remodeling project but you want an environmentally conscious alternative? Why not consider reclaimed wood, bamboo, or cork flooring?

No matter which flooring product you choose, you want to look for the following green qualifications:

1. You want a product with low or no VOCs. VOC stands for “Volatile Organic Compounds” and you can think of these as the byproducts that off-gas vapor into the air after installation like, for instance, new carpet smell.
2. You want a product that is rapidly renewable or sustainable. This means the product must either be able to regenerate itself in less than 10 years time or it is harvested in a way that the rate at which it is harvested will never exceed the rate at which it can replenish itself.
3. You want a product that doesn’t compromise durability or longevity. In other words, you want it to last.

Traditional wood flooring options that are also sustainable include reclaimed wood from demolition sites (wood that would otherwise be put into landfills), plantation grown wood flooring, and salvaged wood flooring from old barns & buildings. All of these “traditional” wood products are environmentally conscious because they recycle products that would otherwise be thrown out.

Bamboo flooring is another sustainable wood product that is harder than oak and more dimensionally stable than maple. Due to these properties, bamboo is quickly becoming a popular choice by builders and homeowners alike. Bamboo grasses are harvested every 6 years, over and over from the same plant. It comes in horizontal grain for a more contemporary look and stranded for the more traditionally minded.

Cork flooring begins its life as bark from cork oak trees primarily grown in the Mediterranean. It can be harvested over and over, as the cork bark grows back after each harvesting. Cork is very durable and easy to maintain. It contains no VOCs, is noise absorbent, rot resistant, and can act as an insulator from cold concrete subfloors. A protective sealer is applied after installation just as you would do for wood floors.

So if you’re in the market for new wood floors, consider using a greener alternative that will still give you the warmth and durability of traditional wood flooring, but won’t hurt the earth in the process.

Let’s face it—insulation isn’t sexy. It doesn’t come with cool, slick finishes or in an array of pretty colors (although pink isn’t bad). But what insulation may lack in flash, it more than makes up for in its potential impact toward creating an environmentally responsible home. In fact, insulation is the single most important material in increasing a home’s energy efficiency.

Any reduction in household energy consumption directly translates into less pollution produced by power plants. By this definition alone, any insulation could be considered a green product. But there are a lot of new green insulation products out there for you to consider.

Let’s begin with the pink stuff. The most widely used home insulator for the past 70 years is fiberglass batt insulation, popular for its low cost and easy installation. However, as anyone who has ever worked with it knows, you don’t want to breathe or touch the stuff without proper protection. Fiberglass is essentially “glass wool”. Some experts deem the product safe as long as you follow specific manufacture’s instructions. Others argue the release of airborne fibers and use of a formaldehyde binding agent creates reduced levels of indoor air quality. Responding to these claims, fiberglass manufacturers have embraced more green practices by using up to 40% recycled content and offering formaldehyde-free products.

But if you’re looking for something a little more natural, consider cotton batt insulation. Manufactured primarily from old blue jeans, the product is available in R-13 (3.5” thick) and R-19 (5.5” thick) unfaced batts. (R-value is the measure of a product’s thermal resistance) It’s treated with borate to increase pest and fire resistance, and because it’s 100% recycled and organic, there are no issues with diminished indoor air quality.

Cellulose insulation, made primarily from recycled newspapers, is about 80% recycled & organic in content and like cotton insulation, is also treated with borates giving it a Class 1 fire rating. In the event of a fire it will smolder instead of melt, thus releasing less toxic fumes. Cellulose insulation can be blown in dry or wet, however the wet application is generally considered superior due to its ability to reduce air infiltration. The cost of cellulose insulation is also generally considered more affordable than other newer foam insulators.

Spray foam insulation offers to best option for reducing thermal heat loss through air leakage. There are basically two types of spray foam insulation, open cell and closed cell. Open cell, referred to as half-pound foam, is less dense and applied with a water-based blowing agent. Closed cell, also called 2 pound foam, has a much higher R-value per inch but uses an HFC blowing agent for its application. HFC’s are global warming agents, however this chemical is largely contained within the “closed cells” of the foam thus diminishing its environmental effects until its end-of-life. There are also soy-based or bio-based foams offering a certain percentage of organic materials.

Spray foam insulations are typically 3-4 times more expensive, especially closed cell foam. But spray foam also offers the highest R-value rating per inch and superior protection against air infiltration, making it an attractively green energy saver. Spray foams are not DIY projects though; they must be professionally applied.

One final new product to mention is Aerogels. Aerogels may be the best thermal insulators in the world, providing 40 times the insulation of fiberglass. They are made from super-porous silicon foam made up of 99% air, making it translucent while still amazingly strong, light, and insulating. Although arguably, silica foam is not any better for your health than fiberglass, this product is never sold loose – it is always sold in pre-sealed window panels. Using this new product, windows may soon lap walls for superior insulating properties. In the world of design, such innovation could be a game changer.

No matter which product you use, insulating your home packs a lot of bang for your buck. The cost of your investment can usually be recouped in 3-5 years. Better insulation in a home also means downsizing furnaces and a/c units as they don’t need to work as hard. So while insulation won’t have your guests ooing and ahhing over how great it looks, properly insulating your home will save energy for the planet and save you money – money you can then spend on all those flashy finishes.

Successful rooms are more than well proportioned spaces. Scale and context within the larger home are important as is the capture of a particular view through a window or door. The even distribution of natural light that comes through the windows and doors helps to determine our comfort in a space. We fill our spaces with furniture and cover our floors with rugs in an effort to humanize empty space. We then personalize our enviroment to make it our own. Our choices range from those that shape raw space to the selection of materials that will define the character of those spaces. Somewhere along the line that represents the continuum of decisions, a material selection has to be made that sets the overall tone for each room.

The use or function of a room will determine whether or not a single material takes primacy or if the materials need to balance one another. Think about a bathroom and tile and stone decisions weigh most heavily. A Kitchen, on the other hand, usually requires a balance of several selections. In a Library, the cabinets and bookshelves create the bones for the space. In choosing those finishes then, the millwork decision goes a long way towards determining the personality of that room.

The personality of a room is often a reflection of the personality of the client; occasionally a client has preferences but more often than not, we’re asked to make material selections that are appropriate in terms of both function and character. I selected English Brown Oak recently for a clients Library because of it’s inherent character. Oak works well (meaning a cabinet maker can work with it) and for a client interested in the texture that a relatively open grained wood species delivers, oak is an appropriate choice. Although a great many interiors and a considerable amount of fine furniture has been produced from both American red and white oak, English brown oak is unique in color and it is the color of this specie that is its specific signature.

All woods show a variety of color. Unfortunately, when finished, most American oak has a tendency to look either pink or green – unless it’s been stained so dark as to look the color of espresso. In fact, a great amount of oak furniture produced in this country was “fumed” – actually ammoniated – in an effort to disguise some of its natural character and give it a color closer to the rarer honeyed tones of English Brown Oak. Naturally brown with a color range that moves from honey to walnut, the color of English Brown Oaks is a result of a fungus that attacks something like one in five hundred European oak trees. No damage is done to the structure of the wood but the color is enhanced.

While it’s true that rare things have their own value, if you’d like to invest in a wood selection that is beautiful in its natural, neutral brown color and if you’re looking for a wood that will subtly age to a darker and richer tone, you should consider English Brown Oak.

English Brown Oak

With winter right around the corner, have your furnace or boiler serviced before you’re stuck with a cold home and frozen pipes. A clean, well-adjusted heating system will provide better efficiency and prolong the life of your system. It’s recommended to have the system checked annually. Here are a few tips to keep your heating system in top working order:

1. Test your system before the end of October. Make sure the system turns on and warm air flows out of vents within a few minutes.
2. Replace your air filter.
3. Check all heat registers for debris.
4. MOST IMPORTANTLY, be sure to test your carbon monoxide detector. If the CO detector is hardwired, be sure it’s on a battery backup to ensure protection in the event of a power outage. You should have one detector per floor and at least one in the hallway outside any bedroom.

When having your furnace serviced, make sure the contractor checks for the following items:

1. Have the combustion chamber checked for holes or corrosion and cleaned for soot buildup.
2. Check the exhaust fuel pipe for holes that could leak carbon monoxide into the home and have the damper checked for proper draw. If the pipe is corroded, it should be replaced.
3. Make sure blower motor is clean and in good working order.
4. Make sure the heat exchanger is inspected thoroughly for defects or cracks.
5. If you have a boiler unit, make sure the pilot and burners are clean, pumps are oiled, the combustion chamber is clean and burning efficiently.

The key to an efficient, long-lived heating system is annual maintenance. Be sure to get it checked before you’re left out in the cold.